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止錨灣,晚夏的那片靜?!?012年遼寧省綏中縣止錨灣海濱自助游攻略

發(fā)布時間:2012年08月23日 編輯:大元 訪問:31287 評論:37條 發(fā)表評論! 糾錯!
所屬地區(qū): 遼寧 綏中 適合人群: 所有人 出游難度: 輕松
適合天數(shù): 2天 花費(fèi)預(yù)算: 500元 適合時間: 6月 7月 8月 9月 10月
可信標(biāo)志: (本攻略已通過所有細(xì)節(jié)核實,讀者可放心參考。)
攻略標(biāo)簽: 止錨灣 ◎切換到圖文完整版


(碣石  作者:高興77)
  一到夏天,就想去海邊,吹海風(fēng),泡海浴,吃海鮮,但一想到夏季海濱烏泱烏泱的人群就我又失去了玩耍的心情,無法忍受海邊的嘈雜和下餃子似的高密度場面,這個晚夏,朋友提議了一個冷僻而又好聽的名字——止錨灣——據(jù)說那是一片未被開發(fā),安靜得只有海鷗和漁船的海灣。據(jù)說那里曾是東北最富庶的漁港,塵封著秦皇漢武東巡祭海的行宮和孟姜女投海殉情的動人故事。
  一切都是純天然,至今依舊保存著至真至純的模樣,也許只有那輛大巴車和我們在這個純粹中顯得不那么和諧,反倒是那些漁民,他們屬于這里,黝黑發(fā)亮的肌膚是屬于這里的。慢慢走進(jìn)水中,溫度合適,腳下的沙細(xì)細(xì)滑滑的,有被海水沖刷而成的波紋,走了快三百米,水才剛剛到肩膀。被海水擁抱著,見不到幾個游人,所有工作生活中的不快都被輕輕的海風(fēng)吹散,心也沉靜下去,舒展四肢在水中游著,可以想事情也可以什么都不想。海風(fēng)如女子的手輕撫著面頰,天高、波綠、風(fēng)盈,便微微的醉了。游的累了,坐在海邊的太陽傘下吃小吃,看著朋友在淺灘捉蛤蜊或躺在沙灘上小憩,幾個孩子套著救生圈在淺淺的海水中起起伏伏,兩只小狗女主人的呼喊下表演著狗刨,嘻嘻哈哈的笑聲不斷。繼而想當(dāng)年秦始皇東巡止于此,一定是也被這美麗的海灣所留,如遠(yuǎn)航的船都要在這里??繏佸^。

(晚霞  作者:cxxy0959)
  晚飯后,放完煙花再去海邊,止錨灣的淺夜,只能聞得見濤聲在摸索前行。夜晚的浪平緩了,天空也似大海,幽深幽深的。站在碼頭聽見海浪與礁石的碰撞,發(fā)出震耳欲聾的嘩嘩聲和喁喁的海的絮語。星星點(diǎn)燈,使人覺得海的深沉莫測。而海的早晨則是清幽靜謐的,趕個大早看海上日出,一輪紅日從海上徐徐升起,第一次看到這樣美麗的日出和這樣透明的海,為了那一瞬的晨光,寂靜的清晨,朝霞沖破蔚藍(lán)云隙,迸射出橘色的光影,晨煙下的山巒,清晰而神秘,晨曦下的海面,靜謐、溫暖,讓人想擁有一份海一般沉勇的性情。
  退潮了,我揀了貝殼、海菜、海螺等,想象著把這海的韻味帶回去。止錨灣,不久的將來可能會開發(fā)建設(shè)成海港,改變今日的容顏,不如趕著夏天的尾巴,在她變了模樣之前,面朝大海,春暖花開。
  (文字作者:蝶舞)


快樂的徜徉  作者:佚名


趕海拾貝  作者:cxxy0959


打漁歸來  作者:cxxy0959


廢棄的漁船  作者:慢慢長大

 海浪輕撫的沙灘 作者:慢慢長大

海星  作者:cxxy0959


止錨灣的日出  作者:貓貓


放孔明燈  作者:原始次生林


最后的靜海  作者:原始次生林


燒烤聚會  作者:wawadelia


海的暇思  作者:佚名


海上升明月  作者:佚名

 海灘營地 作者:佚名

勞作的漁民們  作者:佚名

止錨灣景點(diǎn)介紹


(海浪逐沙灘  作者:cxxy0959)
   止錨灣與山海關(guān)、北戴河一脈相承,同屬一片海濱,但這里深藏未露,淳樸天然,沒有過多的人工斧鑿氣息或商業(yè)行為,游客的自由度很高,不用擔(dān)心有管理人員過來破壞氣氛。無風(fēng)無浪時海水清澈見底,海里的沙子大多順滑細(xì)膩,徑直往大海里走幾百米都未必能讓海水漫過肩膀。
  沙灘相對人少,地域空闊,可以組織沙灘足球?qū)官惖?。夜晚海灘會有人放煙火、孔明燈等,還可能遇到篝火晚會、燒烤聚餐等。止錨灣的日出日落很美,適合住上一晚。礁石群將沙灘分割成一個又一個單元,適合垂釣。
  "止錨灣"地名由來已久,一說是因過往的船只經(jīng)過此處,被這里的美景吸引,便決然拋錨停泊。自此之后,慕名而來的船只紛紛落錨而至,后成了良港漁村,稱為"止錨灣";另一說,因為那的水非常淺,錨都不用拋下,所以叫止錨灣。
  景點(diǎn)介紹
  止錨灣有幾個著名的景點(diǎn):一個是離海岸不遠(yuǎn)處三塊突兀嶙峋的巨石直插海面,很多人喜歡游到那里拍照留念,據(jù)說當(dāng)年秦始皇脅迫孟姜女乘船出海巡游,航至山海關(guān)時,美人縱身一躍跳入大海,以身殉夫,此舉泣鬼神,驚天地,頓時風(fēng)高浪急,竟將御船吹出關(guān)外一處靜水灣方才泊住,為感激搭救,秦皇御賜地名“止錨灣”,而這三塊石頭,有人說是孟姜女化身而成,形似將軍,又名將軍石。最著名的說法,則是曹操作《觀滄海》名句"東臨碣石,以觀滄海"中的"碣石"。
  沿著海岸線往東走,有彎月如鉤的白沙海灘,有接天聯(lián)地的裸露礁石,還有廢棄的燈塔、漁港、養(yǎng)魚池,殘破的房屋,神秘的軍事基地。往西走不遠(yuǎn)則是秦漢遺址、姜女廟、山海關(guān)、棧橋望海亭。
      地址:遼寧省葫蘆島市綏中縣城東的萬家鎮(zhèn)
  門票:無

周邊景點(diǎn)
  秦漢遺址
  秦漢遺址群范圍約15平方公里,包括六處大型宮殿遺址,分布在石碑地、黑山頭、瓦子地、大金絲屯、紅石砬子和周家南山。碣石宮遺址,是六處遺址中最大的一處,呈長方形,南北長500多米,東西寬260多米,占地面積15萬平方米。碣石宮建在石碑地高地上。
  遺址的立體建筑靠海岸線,遺留下來的夯土臺高達(dá)8米,臺基邊長40米,有一半沉入地下,是一座規(guī)模宏偉的高臺多級建筑。立體建筑的兩翼有角樓,后面有成批的建筑群。除秦都咸陽和漢都長安以外,極少有如此大型而又布局有方的宮殿建筑群。
  從這里出土的特大夔凰紋瓦當(dāng)和云紋瓦當(dāng),是秦代皇家建筑的專用材料,圖案的規(guī)范化為全國所少見。兩千多年前行宮中的大小居室、排水系統(tǒng)、儲備食物的窖井等,均清晰可見。遺址處現(xiàn)建有遺址陳列館。
  地址:綏中縣萬家鎮(zhèn)止錨灣海濱
  門票:無

  姜女廟
  孟姜女廟又稱貞女祠,是民間故事"孟姜女哭長城"的產(chǎn)物。由貞女祠和孟姜女苑組成。貞女祠始建于宋代以前,明萬歷年間二十二年(1594)主事張棟重修,為河北省重點(diǎn)文物保護(hù)單位。廟宇前有108級臺階直通山門,廟上紅色圍墻內(nèi)有前后兩殿及鐘樓、振衣亭、望夫石等景觀。廟后建有江南水鄉(xiāng)風(fēng)格的園林觀賞區(qū)--孟姜女原及東西配殿,再現(xiàn)我國四大民間傳說之首的"孟姜女的故事"全景。后殿原供觀音,殿后有"望夫石",石上有坑,傳為孟姜女望夫足跡。旁有石臺,臺后有振衣亭,為孟姜女梳妝更衣處。廟東南4公里渤海中有兩塊礁石,傳為孟姜女墳。1956年,孟姜女廟被公布為河北省第一批重點(diǎn)文物保護(hù)單位。
  地址:山海關(guān)城東約6公里的望夫石村后山崗上
  門票:5月-9月:30元,其余時間:25元。
  開放時間: 8:00--16:00

  山海關(guān)
  山海關(guān)古稱榆關(guān),是明長城的東北起點(diǎn),境內(nèi)長城26公里。明朝洪武十四年(公元1381年),徐達(dá)中山王奉命修永平、界嶺等關(guān),在此創(chuàng)建山海關(guān),因其北倚燕山,南連渤海,故得名山海關(guān)。山海關(guān)是萬里長城的最東端。據(jù)史料記載,山海關(guān)自公元1381年建關(guān)設(shè)衛(wèi),至今已有600多年的歷史,自古即為我國的軍事重鎮(zhèn)。山海關(guān)的城池,周長約4公里,是一座小城,整個城池與長城相連,以城為關(guān)。城高14米,厚7米。全城有四座主要城門,并有多種古代的防御建筑,是一座防御體系比較完整的城關(guān),有"天下第一關(guān)"之稱。
  地址:北省秦皇島市區(qū)東部15公里處
  門票:5月-10月:40元;其他月份:35元
  開放時間:8:00-18:00

  九門口長城
  因其城橋下有九個瀉水城門而得名,水勢自西向東直入渤海,氣勢磅礴、壯觀,是自然景觀和人文景觀的完美結(jié)合,因而享有"水上長城"的美譽(yù)。據(jù)文獻(xiàn)記載,九門口長城始建于北齊,九門口,古稱一片石,明代以前就是京奉之間的交通要道。到明太祖(朱元璋)洪武十四年(1381年),由大將徐達(dá)主持修建薊鎮(zhèn)長城。修筑長城后,一片石關(guān)被九門口關(guān)代替,成為關(guān)內(nèi)外交通的重要門戶。 2002年被聯(lián)合國教科文組織評為中國東北地區(qū)唯一的世界文化遺產(chǎn)。
  地址:遼寧省綏中縣李家鄉(xiāng)新臺子村境內(nèi),距山海關(guān)15公里
  門票:成人票:60元;兒童票:30元
  開放時間:8:30-17:00

止錨灣出游地圖


止錨灣位置圖

止錨灣當(dāng)?shù)亟煌?/h3>

  止錨灣雖然屬于遼寧綏中,但毗鄰河北秦皇島市山海關(guān)區(qū),距離京沈高速萬家鎮(zhèn)出口大約十公里,公路交通非常方便,鐵路交通因為鄰近山海關(guān)火車站,山海關(guān)火車站每天經(jīng)停幾十趟客運(yùn)列車,交通非常發(fā)達(dá)。一般去止錨灣多數(shù)人會選擇自駕前往,如果坐火車去,可以坐火車到山海關(guān),山海關(guān)區(qū)距離止錨灣大約十五公里,可以事先約好住宿的漁家樂酒店開車來接站,也可以直接打車前往。
  自駕:
  北京方向:走京沈高速,出山海關(guān)即見萬家鎮(zhèn)路牌,萬家出高速后右轉(zhuǎn),朝南走約10公里到海邊止錨灣。
  沈陽方向:沿京哈高速從九門口水上長城/碣石海濱出口離開,駛?cè)胫肪啪€。
  天津方向:長深高速--唐津高速--京哈高速--山海關(guān)出口,即見萬家鎮(zhèn)路牌。

  火車:
  止錨灣毗鄰山海關(guān),坐車到山海關(guān)比較方便,可坐火車到山海關(guān)下車,然后打車或做小巴到止錨灣,20多分鐘,或者直接聯(lián)系店家去接。北京、沈陽、天津等地到山海關(guān)的列車有幾十趟可供選擇。到達(dá)山海關(guān)后,坐小巴或出租車可直接前往址錨灣海邊,約20分鐘路程。
  推薦火車車次:
  D21 動車組 北京-山海關(guān)   07:00-09:32 2小時32分 二等軟座93
  D10 動車組 沈陽北-山海關(guān) 08:59-13:52 4小時53分 二等軟座207
  更多山海關(guān)火車信息見:http://train.qunar.com/station.htm?fromStation=%E5%B1%B1%E6%B5%B7%E5%85%B3

止錨灣當(dāng)?shù)刈∷?/h3>

  止錨灣適合住一晚,淺夜散步、伴著海浪入睡或早起看日出都很有味道。止錨灣的住宿有很多選擇,但因還沒有商業(yè)開發(fā),大多數(shù)房間的住宿條件不甚理想。房屋狹小,電壓不足,條件簡陋,洗澡大多采用太陽能熱水器。緊鄰大海的漁家院每個床位從15到50元不等,分2、3、4甚至6人間,若去的人多,可以跟老板協(xié)商砍價。有的農(nóng)家院離海稍微有點(diǎn)遠(yuǎn),但勝在價格便宜,帶淋浴帶廁所的標(biāo)間一般50~80元。當(dāng)然也可以選擇在海灘上扎帳篷。

   推薦住宿:

    1.魚水情漁家院
  推薦理由:靠海近,有獨(dú)立衛(wèi)生間,比較干凈,早餐味道好。
  價格:標(biāo)間120元/間,包吃100元/人
  電話:0429-6485294   15142867892 

  2.開心農(nóng)家院
  推薦理由:農(nóng)家院就在海邊,開窗就是海,可以伴著海浪入睡。
  價格:標(biāo)間120元/間,包吃100元/人
  電話:0429-6485511  13315679505

  3.碣石宮海洋假日酒店
  推薦理由:獨(dú)立別墅里的標(biāo)間,酒店有獨(dú)立的海灘。
  價格: 標(biāo)間300元/間。如需早餐需提前預(yù)訂,每人10元。
  電話: 0429-6486111   6486222

止錨灣當(dāng)?shù)仫嬍?/h3>

(吃海鮮  作者:wawadelia)
  來到海邊旅游,自然要吃海鮮。止錨灣所有接待游人住宿的漁家樂,都同時經(jīng)營餐飲。一般游客住在誰家,就在誰家吃飯。早餐非常普通,一般人均十元,無非是稀飯饅頭雞蛋之類。午餐和晚餐可以品嘗到當(dāng)?shù)睾ur風(fēng)味,如螃蟹、琵琶蝦、扇貝、白眼魚等,但若想品嘗到更加新鮮可靠的海產(chǎn)品,可以自己去市場買些海鮮回來,請店家加工。運(yùn)氣好的話,在海邊會遇到剛剛出海歸來的漁船,直接向漁船購買海鮮,再回去委托客店老板加工,無論是口感還是經(jīng)歷,都是最有趣的。注意事先談好加工費(fèi),這樣既可以吃到新鮮的海鮮,又便宜。晚上還可以在海灘上進(jìn)行海鮮燒烤,魷魚、章魚、蝦、花蛤等燒烤的味道也不錯。

止錨灣行程規(guī)劃

  D1中午到達(dá)止錨灣,可到海邊戲水游玩,海邊自由活動。
  中午抵達(dá)止錨灣,餐后到海邊游玩,觀海、游泳、玩沙灘排球;晚餐自行品嘗當(dāng)?shù)仫L(fēng)味小吃(可海邊燒烤、海鮮加工、品農(nóng)家綠色佳肴)。晚上到金沙灘看煙花、放孔明燈,參加多彩的夜間活動。
  D2 看日出,周邊景點(diǎn)游。
  破曉觀日出,趕海拾貝,早餐后前往碣石景區(qū),體驗當(dāng)年魏武帝登臨碣石,以觀滄海的豪情壯志。明長城的東端起點(diǎn),素有"天下第一關(guān)"之稱的山海關(guān)。下午可參觀九門口長城。

止錨灣其他信息


(止錨灣黃昏  作者:cxxy0959)

特點(diǎn)提醒
  1、若自駕或者包車,建議事先買好足夠的水、食品、燒烤物資,到海邊除了海鮮,盡量吃自己帶的東西。
  2、海灘上有不少軍事通訊基地,盡量遠(yuǎn)離他們,強(qiáng)大的雷達(dá)輻射對身體極度有害。
  3、雖然大多數(shù)沙灘很細(xì)膩,但是有礁石的很危險,若在此處下海,建議穿跟腳的沙灘涼鞋;若有折疊車最好帶著,沿著濱海路可以徑直騎到山海關(guān),孟姜女廟,很方便。
  4、原汁原味的漁民部落雖然令人興奮,但是不管吃飯還是住宿,最好提前和老板講好價格。
  5、在海邊潮氣特大,建議帶上厚衣服,另外蚊蟲較多,帶上驅(qū)蚊藥;若在海灘扎帳篷,當(dāng)?shù)厝藭夷銇y收費(fèi),要價頗高,可選擇在沙灘邊的草地上扎。
  6、早晨起來,能在海水里撿到螃蟹哎,個頭不小,帶上漁網(wǎng)之類的會有好的收獲。海灘邊上進(jìn)去有好多小石頭,要下海的,一定提前備著沙灘鞋和創(chuàng)可貼。
  7、現(xiàn)金一定要帶足,止錨灣可以刷卡消費(fèi)的地方幾乎沒有。
  8、這里也可以隨船出海,不過卻分兩種方式:1)隨當(dāng)?shù)貪O船出海打漁,撒一網(wǎng),撈上的海鮮歸游客,價格大約500元左右;2)坐船繞碣石等景物一圈,差不多40分鐘,要價大約200,均攤到每個游客頭上,也就十幾塊錢。

曹操作《觀滄?!返膫髡f
  傳說,2000年前的秦始皇以及魏武帝曹操,東游時均到達(dá)此處。曹操平定了三郡烏桓和遼西、遼東后準(zhǔn)備回許昌,他帶領(lǐng)文臣武將,三謁碣石宮。在望海臺上,曹操望著大海,納百川,匯江河,一碧萬頃,不禁心曠神怡,詩興大發(fā),大呼:"拿筆來!"侍衛(wèi)安放好文房四寶,曹操揮毫寫上:
  東臨碣石,
  以觀滄海。
  水何澹澹,
  山島竦峙。
  樹木叢生,
  百草豐茂。
  秋風(fēng)蕭瑟,
  洪波涌起。
  日月之行,
  若出其中。
  星漢燦爛,
  若出其里,
  幸甚至哉,
  歌以詠志。
  曹操一口氣寫完,又在右下角署上"曹孟德于建安十二年九月,觀滄海"。

孟姜女的傳說
  孟姜女的傳說有很多個版本,像河北徐水、陜西銅川、湖南、河南等都流傳著孟姜女的故事,但唯有山海關(guān)的孟姜女廟最為正宗,也是迄今為止保存最為完整的孟姜女廟。相傳孟姜女生活在秦始皇時代,她的丈夫范杞梁被抓去修長城,多時未歸,她不辭辛苦萬里尋夫來到海邊長城腳下,卻聽說丈夫已因修筑長城累死,尸骨埋在長城下。她得此噩耗,悲痛欲絕,放聲大哭,將長城哭倒,她把丈夫的尸骨揀出埋葬后,在山海關(guān)投海自盡。從此,這里被后人認(rèn)為是“孟姜女哭長城”之地,并修建了孟姜女廟。而海中的礁石則被認(rèn)為是孟姜女的墳?zāi)购湍贡?br />       深度了解: http://www.shgpa.org/show.asp?id=278

止錨灣出游參考

  螞蜂窩和游多多都有曾去過葫蘆島市綏中縣止錨灣游玩的旅友們所寫的止錨灣游記,記錄了止錨灣旅程中吃住行玩等實用的游玩路線信息,可供旅友們參考。
  止錨灣游記:http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/934559.html

      止錨灣游記:http://www.yododo.com/area/blog/012317FC086E2D0DFF80808123158057


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攝影:原始次生林、cxxy0959 、swing等

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本攻略最后修訂時間:2012年08月27日

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