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在南太行之上聽高山流水——2012年山西省陵川縣王莽嶺自助游攻略

發(fā)布時(shí)間:2012年08月30日 編輯:大元 訪問:82937 評(píng)論:44條 發(fā)表評(píng)論! 糾錯(cuò)!
所屬地區(qū): 山西 晉城 適合人群: 所有人 出游難度: 微難
適合天數(shù): 3天 花費(fèi)預(yù)算: 600元 適合時(shí)間: 4月 5月 6月 7月 8月 9月 10月
可信標(biāo)志: (本攻略已通過所有細(xì)節(jié)核實(shí),讀者可放心參考。)
攻略標(biāo)簽: 王莽嶺 ◎切換到圖文完整版


(王莽嶺日出云海  作者:原原的老豆)
  過去我常常以為川西高原青藏高原才有跌宕起伏的山川之美,沒想在一馬平川的中原大地,太行山高聳入云,美景奇觀讓人大跌眼鏡。早就聽說游太行,不可不到王莽嶺。王莽嶺就是太行山精華濃縮的一朵奇葩,像一尊華麗的王冠端放在太行云端之巔,聽高水流水,乘縹緲虛無,可高臺(tái)論劍,可俯瞰人間。
  清晨,天有些陰。景區(qū)張主任說最近連續(xù)降雨,溝底的瀑布已經(jīng)很有些氣勢(shì)。從縣城東行逐漸進(jìn)入南太行深處,公路蜿蜒而上。沿途村落和農(nóng)田越來越少。封山育林的山區(qū)植被在逐漸恢復(fù)。這里位于陵川縣城以東100公里,是晉豫交界處。王莽嶺景區(qū)總面積上百平方公里,現(xiàn)在開放的是精華部分。據(jù)說有戶外探險(xiǎn)愛好者從河南上山,一路徒步走到山頂,需要至少1天時(shí)間。
  王莽嶺所在的南太行山是華北平原和黃土高原的分界線,斷層地質(zhì)帶上形成的地質(zhì)奇觀。有北方山脈的雄渾,又有南方山區(qū)的清秀一面。在地質(zhì)學(xué)界,這里是嶂石巖地貌的典型地區(qū)。王莽嶺所在的山區(qū)北面深入壺關(guān)等地,東和南延伸到河南境內(nèi),著名的云臺(tái)山就是另外一個(gè)著名景觀。王莽嶺一帶山峰最高1665米。由于斷層的階梯狀態(tài),從山頂?shù)缴焦扔卸鄠€(gè)遞進(jìn)式斷崖,每個(gè)斷崖之間是或?qū)捇蛘倪^渡區(qū),往往這里植被茂密,也是人類生產(chǎn)生活的走廊。我們沿徒步線路繼續(xù)前行,走過一段山腰部位,然后再次翻上山脊。人工道路最窄處只能2人錯(cuò)身,一邊是石壁,一邊是懸崖。在很多險(xiǎn)峻地段的欄桿上寫著"嚴(yán)禁跨越欄桿"的字牌。當(dāng)時(shí)我看了感覺這樣寫沒有實(shí)際意義,如果跨出欄桿就是死路一條,一般人不會(huì)這樣做。后來才知道王莽嶺景區(qū)曾發(fā)生過女大學(xué)生失落懸崖的案例。從那以后,景區(qū)在所有危險(xiǎn)位置上都建立了警示牌。原來這牌子是用生命換來的。這也再次提醒人們,外出探險(xiǎn)不要冒險(xiǎn),適可而止,旅行才能順利。


 (重山疊嶂的奇峰  作者:草堂)

   景區(qū)里設(shè)置了一些景點(diǎn)解釋牌。如龍脈龕、劉秀跳、隱仙崖等。為了應(yīng)和王莽追劉秀的傳說,其實(shí)大可不必。王莽嶺景區(qū)完全可以在地質(zhì)學(xué)上大作文章?!吨袊鴩业乩怼冯s志2011年5月號(hào)的專題太行山,重點(diǎn)就在地質(zhì)構(gòu)造上,多處提到王莽嶺景區(qū),這樣的免費(fèi)宣傳很給力。
  山脊上出現(xiàn)很多奇形怪狀的石頭,上面還有很多窟窿。專家考察,這些石頭是石灰?guī)r層,有幾億年的歷史,常年自然侵蝕成了這樣的百變摸樣。有一處看上去酷似一峰匍匐在地的駱駝。還有些地方出現(xiàn)了層疊的頁巖,景區(qū)給命名為石庫天書,這些都是地理學(xué)上的重要標(biāo)志。南太行山的雄偉絕險(xiǎn),重要原因是山頂?shù)氖規(guī)r和下面的嶂石巖被侵蝕以后的結(jié)果。經(jīng)過一段山頂上的緩坡松林,到了徒步線路的終點(diǎn),這里也是索道的終點(diǎn)。山頂是個(gè)超大平臺(tái),新建了餐廳和賓館。這里是群山環(huán)繞的中心,附近山峰好像都矮了半截,層層疊疊的山看不到邊,好像萬馬奔騰的軍陣,氣勢(shì)宏大。山頂是溶巖地貌區(qū)域,剛才看到的各類奇怪的石頭都是這類地質(zhì)條件下造就的。


(王莽嶺山頂?shù)呐_(tái)階  作者:色影鏡界)
   下午,山間谷地里依然云霧繚繞。王莽嶺的云是一大勝景。云霧最大時(shí),周圍的山峰好似海上仙山一般。有的宣傳語中稱這里是太行至尊。如果說張家界黃獅寨的萬峰云海,是帶有南方秀麗的雄奇,王莽嶺上則完全是北國豪情。山頂海拔比較高,地上到處是一種長桿、頂端生長著圓茸球的植物。它是王莽嶺植物群落里的優(yōu)勢(shì)種。
   為保證安全,王莽齡內(nèi)部交通都由景區(qū)負(fù)責(zé),外部車輛嚴(yán)禁上山。從山頂排隊(duì)等候去著名的掛壁公路的人很多。經(jīng)過不斷改進(jìn),掛壁公路的條件比最初好了許多,車子開過還形成很大的氣流,風(fēng)聲在四周回響,好似車子在一條長長的時(shí)光隧道中穿行。到了坡底,掛壁公路的終點(diǎn)是以前與世隔絕的錫崖溝村。出村繼續(xù)南行是錫崖溝最南端、山西和河南交界處。王莽齡景區(qū)南大門外的空地上,停著幾輛對(duì)面河南輝縣回龍景區(qū)的班車。也就是說,客人可以不回山西,繼續(xù)去河南旅行。回頭看,剛才一覽眾山小的王莽嶺山頂就在自己頭上,三面山體的紅色巖石邊緣是筆直的斷崖,下切幾百米直到谷底,那里有一條水流從山根處的裂縫直瀉而下,應(yīng)該就來自溝里的瀑布。這處宏大的景觀是紅巖大峽谷,被選為2011年5月號(hào)《中國國家地理》雜志的封面圖片。
  河南一側(cè),也有同樣的紅色巖石斷崖,一條水流直接從最高處傾瀉而下,直落幾百米砸向懸崖底部。底部的水霧中有些小黑點(diǎn)在移動(dòng),透過鏡頭,我驚奇的發(fā)現(xiàn),那是一位羊倌和他的黑羊群在趕路途徑這里。王莽嶺一帶盡管險(xiǎn)峻無比,依然養(yǎng)育了一方辛勤勞作的人民。
     (文字作者: traveler)


錫崖溝瀑布  作者:晉芳


巍巍王莽嶺 作者:草堂


好漢坡108層臺(tái)階建在高山之上  作者:林中漫步


王莽嶺壯觀河山  作者:晉芳


王莽嶺的植被豐富 作者:林中漫步


王莽嶺山頂  作者:喜歡吃糖的人

日照云海 作者:海里的魚


峽谷 作者:秋風(fēng)勁

當(dāng)?shù)厝嗣裨谘卤谏祥_鑿出蜿蜒道路  作者:胡柚柚

盡管險(xiǎn)峻無比,依然養(yǎng)育了一方人民  作者:秋風(fēng)勁

王莽嶺落日  作者:花無缺

云海、日出和奇峰是王莽嶺的特色  作者:誰也唐風(fēng)


王莽嶺秋日光景  作者:佚名


秋季,行走在王莽嶺棧道上  作者:佚名


高聳的山脈  作者:海里的魚


柔美的光線映襯于山巒云海中  作者:網(wǎng)管

王莽嶺景點(diǎn)介紹


(王莽嶺是晉豫的界山  作者:mujie)
  王莽嶺是陵川與河南輝縣的界山。山之東崖,俗稱天柱關(guān),由高低錯(cuò)落的56個(gè)山峰組成。大者,峰頂可跑馬,小者狀如筆尖聳立,巍峨崢嶸。山南部千仞峭壁,如一石削成,"千峰爭(zhēng)攢聚,萬壑絕凌歷"。北部巍巖相迭,青蓮秀出,群峰連綿。仰瞰之間,怪石嶙峋,濃綠淺翠,流泉飛瀑。晴日,千奇百怪的峰巖,青中帶紫,近看山形勾勒分明,遠(yuǎn)眺如畫中寫意,朦朧如幻。王莽嶺壯觀之處,莫過于日出。每逢晴日,峰巒沉浸在茫茫云海中,一輪紅日冉冉升起,一時(shí)間霞光萬道,群山盡染,一如泰頂。

  觀日臺(tái)
  觀日臺(tái)位于王莽嶺東側(cè),從景區(qū)接待處往東走不遠(yuǎn)即到,這里云海蒼茫,宛如大海之上的洶涌波濤,每日凌晨三四點(diǎn)鐘,陽光從茫茫云海之中噴薄而出,十分壯觀,是拍攝日出的最佳境地。

  勒馬崖
  相傳王莽騎馬路經(jīng)此地,寶馬突然前蹄騰空,將王莽重重的摔下馬來,王莽正要發(fā)怒,低頭一看,不由倒吸一口冷氣,馬蹄下一石如刀劈一般直插于萬丈深淵之中,幸得寶馬相救,王莽才免遭此難。勒馬崖的四周群山高聳,蒼松翠柏挺拔傲立,遠(yuǎn)處山巒聳立于茫茫云海之中,忽隱忽現(xiàn),猶如仙境一般。是拍攝崇山峻嶺和云海的好地方。

  石庫兵書
  為一大群風(fēng)化的巖石,造型奇特,千姿百態(tài),相傳為王莽將士遺棄的兵書,橫觀豎看,形態(tài)各不相同。

  姊妹峰
  為兩座猶如筆尖聳立的削拔山峰,兩峰相依,猶如姊妹一般,因而得名,姊妹峰下便是河南的輝縣,峰下的山脈多隱于云霧之中。站在峰口,猶如天境一般。

  劉秀城山
  在王莽嶺南,有劉秀城山遙遙相峙。相傳漢劉秀受王莽之逼,逃到此地,依托四周懸崖絕壁的天險(xiǎn)與王莽抗衡,兩山一溝相隔,溝名"城壕",僅有一條小路可通山頂,有"一人當(dāng)關(guān)、萬夫莫開"之險(xiǎn)。現(xiàn)在山頂尚有房基痕跡和殘磚敗瓦,是劉秀城寨之遺跡,東南有一崎嶇小道可通河南,名叫"掰破梯",相傳劉秀被圍時(shí),曾對(duì)天祈禱,山遂自行掰開,劉秀順此路逃往河南。

周邊景點(diǎn)
  錫崖溝
  錫崖溝位于王莽嶺景區(qū)南端四周落差1000多米的深谷之中,四面環(huán)山。該區(qū)山陡溝深,地勢(shì)險(xiǎn)惡,峭壁環(huán)列,由于天險(xiǎn)阻隔,溝中二百戶人家?guī)缀跖c世陷于隔絕,千百年來自生自滅。1962年,溝里人不甘閉塞,向大山宣戰(zhàn),歷時(shí)三十年,兩代人在村西絕壁上鑿出一條長7.5公里的掛壁公路,開創(chuàng)了中國鄉(xiāng)村筑路史上的奇跡,錫崖掛壁公路被稱為世界奇觀。
  地址:山西省晉城陵川縣城60公里的古郊鄉(xiāng)東端晉豫兩省交界處

  棋子山
  棋子山,又名謀棋山,山勢(shì)平緩,主峰海撥1488米。山上松樹成林,山清水秀,風(fēng)景優(yōu)美。經(jīng)國家有關(guān)部門考察論證,陵川棋子山為中國圍棋發(fā)源地。棋子山方圓數(shù)十里之內(nèi),酷似班固《奕指》及《圍棋辭典》所稱的天然棋石俯拾即是。該區(qū)主要景點(diǎn)有箕子洞和象天枰?;佣聪鄠魇菄灞亲嫔檀油蒲萏煳?、占卦卜筮、謀棋消閑之所。洞內(nèi)巖石上有一處極似圍棋棋盤線條的痕跡并有像圍棋棋子印了去的凹痕。
  地址:山西省陵川縣城10公里的侯莊鄉(xiāng)東北

  馬武寨 
  馬武寨坐落在四周百里皆為絕壁的馬武山中。其前后左右山環(huán)嶺繞,地勢(shì)奇險(xiǎn),易守難攻。寨中原建有金鑾殿、梳妝樓、望景樓、宰官樓等以及東、兩、南、北四大寨門,還設(shè)有菜園、肉翁、鹽場(chǎng)、火房、瓦鋪、教場(chǎng)、趕羊場(chǎng)等,故有馬武京寨之稱。馬武寨自古交通不便,長期閉塞造成了此地原始?xì)庀⒑軡?,是難得的一處自然生態(tài)園。據(jù)傳東漢名將馬武曾在此屯兵。有遺址。此地山上棘無刺,池中青蛙不鳴。相傳為光武帝劉秀因避王莽追趕,曾被棘牽衣而命去刺,因厭蛙聲聒噪而禁蛙鳴。此乃神話,但棘無刺,蛙不鳴屬實(shí)。
  地址:山西省陵川縣東50公里處。

王莽嶺出游地圖


王莽嶺交通示意圖

王莽嶺景區(qū)地圖

王莽嶺當(dāng)?shù)亟煌?/h3>

  去陵川的交通比較便利,乘火車到長治市或晉城市均可,再換乘汽車可直達(dá)陵川縣城。在陵川縣城換乘開往王莽嶺景區(qū)的班車可直達(dá)山頂景區(qū)管理處。而且近期,高陵高速(高新高速山西段)正式通車運(yùn)營,王莽嶺景區(qū)實(shí)現(xiàn)了高速直達(dá),市區(qū)至王莽嶺景區(qū)的行車時(shí)間由兩個(gè)半小時(shí)縮短至一個(gè)小時(shí),結(jié)束了多年來交通不便制約景區(qū)發(fā)展的歷史。

  自駕:
  北京方向:北京(京珠高速)-河南輝縣(輝陵二級(jí)公路)-陵川-景區(qū);
  天津方向:天津-保定-邯鄲(高速)-長治長陵二級(jí)公路-陵川-景區(qū);
  西安方向:西安(一級(jí)公路、風(fēng)運(yùn)高速)-山西運(yùn)城-陽城(陽晉高速)-晉城(晉陵一級(jí)公路)-陵川-景區(qū);
  鄭州方向:鄭州(京珠高速)-焦作(焦晉高速)-晉城(晉陵一級(jí)公路)-陵川-景區(qū);

  鐵路:
  晉城火車站,以發(fā)往商丘、太原、連云港東、北京南、長治北、新鄉(xiāng)6地的列車為主,各車次每天一趟,乘坐方便。
  晉城市火車站問詢處電話:0356-2235102

  公路:
  從陵川縣城汽車站每天前半天每隔一個(gè)小時(shí)有直達(dá)王莽嶺景區(qū)的鄉(xiāng)村巴士,將近60公里,車程1個(gè)半小時(shí),票價(jià)12元/人。王莽嶺景區(qū)回陵川縣城的車也只有上午有,所以得在景區(qū)入住一晚。景區(qū)巴士小交通20元/人,從山腳錫崖溝送到山頂王莽嶺景區(qū)。
  晉城境內(nèi)公路較為發(fā)達(dá),207國道穿境而過,而晉焦、長晉、晉陽高速公路的通車更方便人們來往晉城。
  晉城客運(yùn)中心站地址:澤州東路
  晉城省運(yùn)汽車站地址:晉回路4號(hào)
  晉城市運(yùn)汽車站地址:紅星街西段161號(hào)

王莽嶺當(dāng)?shù)刈∷?/h3>

  王莽嶺景區(qū)內(nèi)設(shè)施齊全,住宿服務(wù)已十分成熟,但王莽嶺大多是新建的高檔的賓館,不僅價(jià)格昂貴且潮濕,建議在山下的錫崖溝村住宿,當(dāng)?shù)剞r(nóng)家比較便宜。農(nóng)家旅館10-25元/人;小旅店10-30元/人,節(jié)假日略長。推薦住宿:

  錫崖溝農(nóng)家樂
  推薦理由:基礎(chǔ)設(shè)施相對(duì)完善,可以洗澡,有地道的農(nóng)家菜可招待。老板老趙會(huì)熱情提供游客一些實(shí)用信息。
  價(jià)格:15元一個(gè)床位,帶衛(wèi)生間標(biāo)間80元/間。
  電話:03566875561 13835690773
  地址:錫崖溝村內(nèi)

王莽嶺當(dāng)?shù)仫嬍?/h3>

  當(dāng)?shù)匚锂a(chǎn)不多,在春季,村民以山上自采的野菜和菌類為主要蔬菜,外進(jìn)蔬菜價(jià)格較貴。除雞蛋之外,動(dòng)物食品價(jià)格高昂。一只雞約40元。當(dāng)?shù)貨]什么特別的飲食,均是地道的農(nóng)家菜。大多數(shù)游客都會(huì)選擇在住宿的農(nóng)家樂解決飲食,一般以人均計(jì)價(jià)。推薦飲食:

  錫崖溝農(nóng)家樂
  推薦理由:基礎(chǔ)設(shè)施相對(duì)完善,有地道的農(nóng)家菜可招待。
  價(jià)格:18元/人
  電話:03566875561 13835690773
  地址:錫崖溝村內(nèi)

特色小吃
  雖然王莽嶺景區(qū)內(nèi)特色小吃不多,但晉城小吃特別豐富,除了最著名的燒大蔥,還有晉城炒涼粉、木耳圪貝、 酸菜黑圪條、高平燒豆腐、鋪層饃饃、燒豬肝、陽城高米莊饃、羊肉火燒 、李圪抓、轉(zhuǎn)面、饞酥等。

  燒大蔥
  相傳慈禧太后西逃時(shí)路經(jīng)澤州(今晉城),當(dāng)?shù)毓賳T隆重設(shè)宴招待。但在開宴時(shí),廚師發(fā)現(xiàn)慌亂之中少做了一道菜。為了免遭殺身之禍,廚師急中生智,馬上把菜案上的巴公大蔥拿來一把,幾刀切碎,燒成一道菜,端了上去,叫做燒大蔥。誰知慈禧品嘗后,認(rèn)為滿桌菜中數(shù)這道菜最有味道。傳說歸傳說,慈禧西逃時(shí)并未經(jīng)過晉城,但燒大蔥作為當(dāng)?shù)匾坏烂?,口感香軟不膩,卻一直流傳至今。

  晉城炒涼粉
  炒涼粉是晉城民間傳統(tǒng)風(fēng)味小吃,至今已有100多年的歷史。先將涼粉切成長寬各3-4厘米、厚約1厘米的方塊,放置待用。鍋內(nèi)放少量食油,燒熱后將切好的涼粉塊入鍋翻炒。再將醋汁蒜沫澆入,加蓋,待蒜、醋味入里后出鍋。口感軟嫩,香辣可口。

  李圪抓
  全名羊肉李圪抓,是沁水風(fēng)味小吃中的一朵奇葩。相傳一個(gè)姓李的牧羊人喜吃羊肉包子,食多生厭,他就突發(fā)奇想,借來鄰居做煎餅的鏊子,想把包子用油煎一下,可包子皮厚難熟,他就在手上抹了點(diǎn)油,把包子皮拽薄,這樣做成后油而不膩,別有風(fēng)味。 

  酸菜黑圪條
  當(dāng)?shù)厝擞纸袧{水菜黑圪條,是晉城的一種地方名吃。舊時(shí)當(dāng)?shù)匕酌婢o缺,人們?yōu)檎{(diào)劑生活,用白面包高梁面搟成面條,又因晉城酸菜腌得好,用酸菜作鹵配以黑圪條。撒上香菜、芝麻等??谖端嵯憷本闳?,高梁面特有香味勝似精米白面,越吃越香。久之,成為晉城一種地方大眾化名吃。

當(dāng)?shù)靥禺a(chǎn)
  晉城特產(chǎn)山楂"澤州紅",肉味醇、酸甜多膠質(zhì)、耐貯藏,具有較高的藥用價(jià)值,此外山上多靈芝、何首烏等藥材,價(jià)格相當(dāng)便宜。

王莽嶺行程規(guī)劃

  如果可能的話,可先到河南林州市,入太行大峽谷景區(qū)游覽兩天,再向南到王莽嶺-錫崖溝景區(qū),隨后花一天時(shí)間游覽河南境內(nèi)與錫崖溝景區(qū)毗鄰的回龍景區(qū),欣賞氣勢(shì)宏大的斷裂谷風(fēng)光,最后南下到云臺(tái)山國家地質(zhì)公園游覽兩天。如此約需時(shí)10日,可將太行勝境一網(wǎng)打盡。若只想在王莽嶺游覽,則需兩天。

推薦王莽嶺二日游線路
  D1:第一天游覽王莽嶺的景點(diǎn),觀日臺(tái)、劉秀跳、好漢坡、姐妹峰、勒馬崖等,看云海、奇峰、松濤、掛壁公路等奇觀景象,將自己置于崇山峻嶺中,感受南太行雄風(fēng)。
  D2:王莽嶺壯觀之處,莫過于日出。早起觀日出,游覽錫崖溝,觀掛壁公路、錫崖溝大瀑布,驚嘆"錫崖溝精神"的同時(shí),感受溝里人的淳樸民風(fēng)及田園風(fēng)光。若還有時(shí)間可繼續(xù)游紅巖大峽谷。

王莽嶺其他信息

  關(guān)于王莽嶺景區(qū)的神話和傳說比較多,共有五大傳說。相傳這里是遠(yuǎn)古神話傳說《愚公移山》的發(fā)生地;是道家始祖老子西行路過并創(chuàng)作《道德經(jīng)》的地方;是新朝皇帝王莽和漢光武帝劉秀斗智斗勇的古戰(zhàn)場(chǎng);是愈伯牙創(chuàng)作古代十大名曲《高山流水》的地方;是唐代大詩人白居易經(jīng)羊腸坂登太行賦詩的地方。

  王莽追劉秀的傳說
  這里,我們又必須給大家介紹一下王莽其人。王莽于公元前八年任大司馬,輔政十六年,這段時(shí)期是西漢末年極端腐敗、沒落、混亂的年代。他輔佐的四位皇帝,或昏庸無能,或荒淫無度,或年幼無知,使得政局動(dòng)蕩,禮崩樂壞,加上天災(zāi)不斷,更使百姓苦不堪言,邊塞戰(zhàn)事頻起,農(nóng)民起義風(fēng)起云涌。但王莽象周公一般,制禮作樂,勵(lì)精圖治,雖無力回天,卻贏得了朝廷上下的共識(shí),王莽稱帝勢(shì)在必行。于是乎,力主王莽登基的人大造王莽乃真命天子的輿論,宣稱在龜鴕山(王莽嶺)發(fā)現(xiàn)一龍脈神石,天書四字"王莽登基"。
  于是王莽便于公元八年即位稱帝,改國號(hào)為新。后來,劉秀率大軍到此以毀壞王莽的龍脈石,王莽親率大軍趕來,演義出王莽趕劉秀的故事。說當(dāng)年王莽追劉秀追到一處懸崖,劉秀縱身跳了過去,跳到對(duì)面;王莽一看,底下萬丈深淵,若跳不到對(duì)面,豈不粉身碎骨。于是劉秀逃脫了,后來當(dāng)了皇帝。

攻略制作隊(duì)伍

顧問:王莽嶺景區(qū) 電話:0356-6878613

攝影:秋風(fēng)勁、海里的魚、原原的老豆、喜歡吃糖的人、晉芳

行者:0

本攻略最后修訂時(shí)間:2012年09月05日

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